Thursday, December 13, 2007

Bull Fights

The main event of the Fiestas de Quito (more to come soon) is the bull fights. For almost two weeks, famous bull fighters from around the globe come to Quito to strut their stuff in the Plaza de Torros. This massive arena was built and is used only once a year for this event.




Wealthy Ecuadorians dressed to the nines (and several of our students with cups filled with suspicious looking liquids) pack into the stadium to cheer on or boo the Matadors. To start the fight, the matadors parade around the stadium waving and mesmerizing the crowd with their bejewelled costumes.



Before each round a man carries a chalkboard around the ring which lists the name of the Matador and facts about the bull such as size and weight, much like in a boxing ring. Then the first bull is released. During this time several assistants or junior matadors, also dressed in blinding sequins, take turns distracting the bull with yellow cloths and then running like crazy to hide behind wooden gates.



During this time the Matador is observing the bull´s behavior, strength and speed. At the Matador´s signal a trumpet is sounded (the typical da da da dant de da...CHARGE that we hear at most baseball games) and 2 Picadores on horseback enter the ring. The horses are protected by mattress like material and their eyes are completely covered. Good thing because once the bull sees the horses they attack attempting to lodge their horns underneath the horse. When the bull does this, the Picador stabs the bull will a long spear between the shoulder blades to weaken him. Then another trumpet sounds and 2 other men called banderillos come out carrying short spears with colored streamers hanging from the ends. These men call the bull´s attention and as the bull rushes straight for them, the banderillos stab the bull with the spears-for the rest of the fight the bull has 4-6 of these short spears hanging from his shoulder blades and obvious wounds with blood cascading down his back. At this point the main Matador finally fully enters the ring. He throws his black winged hat onto the floor of the plaza dedicating the bull to the crowd. Then he begins his intimate dance with the bull. For 15 minutes he leads the bull through a serious of close and dangerous charges with his red cloth called the Muleta. Finally the Matador looks the bull in the eyes, commands him to charge and runs a sword through his shoulder blades killing the bull. If the crowd deems it a good fight, they wave white handkerchiefs and the Matador is awarded either one or two of the bull´s ears. He then parades around the ring while the spectators throw their hats and roses into the ring.




Three Matadors fight in 2 bulls each for a total of 6 rounds. The day we attended the atmosphere was dripping with excitement. One older and well respected bull fighter earned one ear and another young up-and-comer crowd pleaser won two ears and was carried out of the stadium on the shoulders of adoring fans. One poor banderilla was trampled (but he walked away okay) and another Matador was shamed for grossly missing the bull and causing unnecessary suffering. It is REALLY difficult to watch the animals die and be dragged out of the ring by their necks however, it is also interesting to witness such a traditional cultural event. Check out some of our videos on youtube. Search under JRo and/or JBird.













Fiestas in Quito

Ecuadorians love their fiestas. Despite harsh economic conditions and an unstable political system, it seems like around here, there is always something to celebrate.

In December the city shuts down for the Fiestas de Quito. It is a celebration of independence. Cultural events such as bull fights, plays and concerts abound. The cultural event we couldn´t pass up was the traditional Chiva. Once a year these infamous party buses emerge from their hiding places to spread holiday cheer. The buses are open air vehicles equipped with benches that cruise around the city with no particular destination (unless you run out of booze and then it´s "to the liquor store for a fill up!") The cool people however hang out on the rooftop terrace where they dance the night away to a brass band. The most important chiva crew member is the man who yells "Duck!" when a low hanging cable or bridge is in danger of injuring someone. Despite his warnings, chiva accidents are inevitable. Last year, Jay was concentrating so hard on his slick salsa moves that he didn´t hear the duck warning. He was biffed by a cable but thought no one noticed so he continued dancing. A few minutes later a pal said, "Jay, you have a huge black mark on your forehead." This year Jenny was following Jay from one chiva to another. When Jay started to climb up the back of the bus he biffed Jenny in the nose. She thought no one noticed and continued to party until Jay asked her why she was bleeding. Party wounds are more priceless than battle wounds. Below are some pictures to document our intense cultural investigations.














Another fiesta we celebrated this past weekend was Carnival. Carnival in Ecuador is basically one big water balloon fight. Even your allies are enemies. Parades and dancing are common but if you dare step outside your house be prepared for a full attack of water and spray foam like these poor people. We don´t know them but all´s fair in Carnival war.



- Jay and Jen