Wealthy Ecuadorians dressed to the nines (and several of our students with cups filled with suspicious looking liquids) pack into the stadium to cheer on or boo the Matadors. To start the fight, the matadors parade around the stadium waving and mesmerizing the crowd with their bejewelled costumes.
Before each round a man carries a chalkboard around the ring which lists the name of the Matador and facts about the bull such as size and weight, much like in a boxing ring. Then the first bull is released. During this time several assistants or junior matadors, also dressed in blinding sequins, take turns distracting the bull with yellow cloths and then running like crazy to hide behind wooden gates.
During this time the Matador is observing the bull´s behavior, strength and speed. At the Matador´s signal a trumpet is sounded (the typical da da da dant de da...CHARGE that we hear at most baseball games) and 2 Picadores on horseback enter the ring. The horses are protected by mattress like material and their eyes are completely covered. Good thing because once the bull sees the horses they attack attempting to lodge their horns underneath the horse. When the bull does this, the Picador stabs the bull will a long spear between the shoulder blades to weaken him. Then another trumpet sounds and 2 other men called banderillos come out carrying short spears with colored streamers hanging from the ends. These men call the bull´s attention and as the bull rushes straight for them, the banderillos stab the bull with the spears-for the rest of the fight the bull has 4-6 of these short spears hanging from his shoulder blades and obvious wounds with blood cascading down his back. At this point the main Matador finally fully enters the ring. He throws his black winged hat onto the floor of the plaza dedicating the bull to the crowd. Then he begins his intimate dance with the bull. For 15 minutes he leads the bull through a serious of close and dangerous charges with his red cloth called the Muleta. Finally the Matador looks the bull in the eyes, commands him to charge and runs a sword through his shoulder blades killing the bull. If the crowd deems it a good fight, they wave white handkerchiefs and the Matador is awarded either one or two of the bull´s ears. He then parades around the ring while the spectators throw their hats and roses into the ring.
Three Matadors fight in 2 bulls each for a total of 6 rounds. The day we attended the atmosphere was dripping with excitement. One older and well respected bull fighter earned one ear and another young up-and-comer crowd pleaser won two ears and was carried out of the stadium on the shoulders of adoring fans. One poor banderilla was trampled (but he walked away okay) and another Matador was shamed for grossly missing the bull and causing unnecessary suffering. It is REALLY difficult to watch the animals die and be dragged out of the ring by their necks however, it is also interesting to witness such a traditional cultural event. Check out some of our videos on youtube. Search under JRo and/or JBird.
For a place named Bathroom, Banos is a beautiful, clean and good smelling place. (However sewer rats were abundant...) Tucked away under the shadow of Tungurahua, a massive active volcano that last erupted in August 2006, Banos provides a surprisingly serene getaway. (There was even a warning of a potential eruption from the Embassy the weekend we visited) Banos is famous for its natural hot baths, hand pulled taffy made from fresh cut sugar cane, several beautiful waterfalls in the adjoining valley and of course cuy. We left on a Friday afternoon and took a bus 4 hours to this mini haven. First things first, Jenny had to taste the local delicacy. She was told that officially cuy is guinea pig but she felt slightly misled. As Jenny gripped the rat claw and took a bite she determined that it tasted like really greasy dark meat chicken.
